Re: [Gimp-user] Add frozen object from short exposure frame to long exposure frame




 Can't help you with camera/exposure issues, but... 

Read the two images (cave; figure jumping) into separate layers (File->Open as Layers)
Make sure the Layers dock is visible.
Make sure the figure layer is above the cave layer; Add an alpha channel to the figure layer; duplicate the 
figure layer and make it invisible (unclick the eyeball at the beginning of the layer); (this is in case 
something
unfixable happens to the copy of the figure layer that you will be working on);
erase everything from the figure layer but what you want; [one can use a layer mask to accomplish the same 
thing 
"non-destructively", at the cost of making the process more complicated for the beginner (like myself, also!)]
move/scale/rotate/... the figure layer to place it where you want.

 File->Save(or Save As) .xcf so that you can do more with this image merge project some other time;
File->Export (or Export As) to whatever image format you like .jpg/.png/...

-Scott Jacobs


-----Original Message-----
From: mikej411 <forums gimpusers com>
To: gimp-user-list <gimp-user-list gnome org>
Cc: notifications <notifications gimpusers com>
Sent: Fri, Feb 24, 2017 6:07 pm
Subject: [Gimp-user] Add frozen object from short exposure frame to long exposure frame

Hello, I'm not sure if I am posting this on the forum, or if these are supportmessages? If I am not posting 
this in the correct area, please feel free to movethis for me, or let me know what area I should post if 
to...I am going on a trip to the Yucatan in May and want to take good pictures insidesome of the Cenotes 
(sinkoles that expose groundwater underneath). Some of thesecenotes are underground with not much light 
(Beams of light from the sun comethrough from the holes at the top of the cave, and some stationary 
artificiallighting is provided from the people who work at these caves as well).So my plan is to use my 
Rokinon 12mm f2.0 with my Sony A6000 on a tripod and setit to max aperture and long exposure, with maybe ISO 
of about 400 to 800. Dothose settings sound about right to get some good low-lit cave pictures? Wouldthere be 
any reason to lower the aperture? Keep in mind, I do not plan on goingany further and setting up external 
light sources, etc. The cave should be litenough to be able to grab a decent picture with long 
exposure.Anyway, the more important question or concern I have comes into play when Iwant to get some action 
shots or get a person into that long exposure photo,i.e. freeze the person when jumping into the water (in 
the air mid-jump). Ithink the only way to do that is with a computer program using layers or masks,correct? I 
don’t want to purchase anything, and I think this can be accomplishedwith GIMP on my Macbook pro.Last night, 
I tried masking myself out of a picture (or whatever the term is),but it was very hard to do in terms of 
being precise. I tried to fiddle aroundwith the lasso and the different detections (color/shape/contrast), to 
no avail.Maybe part of that was because I was on a small laptop without using a mouse.But I think most of it 
was because I am an extreme beginner and this is my firsttime playing around with phot editing tools.Can 
someone please point me to some detailed Gimp tutorial videos either showinghow to accomplish exactly what I 
want from start to finish (Add the frozenperson from the short exposure frame to the long exposure frame), or 
if youdon’t know of a video that explains all of that, then maybe some tutorials onsomething similar, like 
how to precisely mask out people.-- mikej411 (via 
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